"The food is excellent, simply put. It's affordably delicious; with the menu ranging from fish to a gourmet burger, or for the lighter eater, a range of assiettes, including a 3 cheese selection, duck rillettes and simple tomato and mozzarella salad all with the moreish crusty house bread, which work with most of the wines on the menu"
Guest Blogger: Bruno Kronbergs - foodie in the city
An all but unmarked pair of glass doors on Fetter Lane between a barber's and the Technology and Construction Courts admit you to
the underworld of 28-50 Wine workshop and kitchen: the daughter of the Michelin starred Texture and sister to 28-50 Marleybone. All three the brain-children of Icelandic chef Agnar Sverrison and sommelier extraordinaire Xavier Rousset.
The Fetter Lane 28-50 is tucked underground, but does not feel sepulchral: forest green walls, beautiful oiled wood tables and a double height ceiling lend an air of secrecy and seclusion without any need for a view of taxis and barristers hurtling up and down Fleet Street. The main dining room feels bustling without placing dining parties practically on top of each other, with a more secluded banquette against the further most wall for any more intimate diners.
The focus of the 28-50s is unashamedly wine, from the name down to the decor- bottles of fine vintages from interesting vignerons line the walls, along with artfully arranged wine cases- not to say the menu is something of an afterthought, far from it. The dishes on the menu offer a balanced (if somewhat nouvelle cuisine in presentation and portion) palate to sit well with the wines on offer, of which there are plenty on the a la carte list. There is a so called "Collector's List" for the super-discerning connoisseur, with the x-rated, top shelf wines, but I find the regularly updated 'Everyman' list more than sufficient.
The food is excellent, simply put. It's affordably delicious; with the menu ranging from fish to a gourmet burger, or for the lighter eater, a range of assiettes, including a 3 cheese selection, duck rillettes and simple tomato and mozzarella salad all with the moreish crusty house bread, which work with most of the wines on the menu.
Particular highlights for me are the Severn and Wye smoked salmon with very delicate horseradish cream and soda-style bread as a delicious starter particularly with the 2011 Vetliner Sepp Moser from Austria. As a main, the onglet is really an outstanding cut; however, the chef's tendency is to err on the bloody side of medium: you are duly warned. To accompany that I would advise the fabulous Chilean Emiliana Carménère.
As mentioned, the comprehensive everyday wine list offers a wine for most tastes, and each of the fabulously friendly staff are able to advise on picking a personal preference. The maitre d' and the head sommelier tend to both be on hand to lend the extra input for those that want to mull options over, with little tasters happily available if you're not sure.
Bar opening: 10am-11pm
(bar menu available from 12pm-10pm)
140 Fetter Lane